Páganos: History, San Blas and the Dolmen Route

Páganos originated as a settlement in the 11th century, around 1076. Its history can be explored through several distinct points of reference: the Church of the Assumption, the Casona de Juan Ortiz de Zárate and the town’s hermitages. Recurring festival customs and a Dolmen Route that passes through Páganos are also part of its story. If you are looking for a hotel in Páganos, these themes can help you decide which aspects of the town’s history or activities you would like to focus on during your trip.

Church, Casona and Hermitages

The Church of the Assumption dates from the 16th century and features a Renaissance portal. Its construction period and portal offer two specific historical points of reference: the date places the church in its historical context, while the portal provides an indication of its architectural style. The Casona de Juan Ortiz de Zárate is made of reddish stone. Its coat of arms bears the inscription “El mundo es ansí”; the same wording is the title of a novel by Baroja. The Casona thus brings together its architectural appearance and a literary connection. Juan Ortiz de Zárate was secretary of the Inquisition in Zaragoza, later an inquisitor in Cartagena (Peru) and bishop of Salamanca. This sequence links the Casona’s name to a biography spanning several places and roles.

Religious history is also reflected in the two hermitages, though they have different statuses. The former Hermitage of San Clemente was a co-patron of Páganos; its image is kept in the town’s parish church. The Hermitage of Santiago is located at the eastern entrance to the town. After Navaridas was separated from Laguardia, the region’s Hidalgos held their meetings in the Church of Santiago. Today, the hermitage has been deconsecrated and is owned by one of the local wineries. This distinction in status is important: Santiago should be understood as a historic site, while San Clemente is present as a former hermitage and through the image kept in the church.

San Blas and Festival Traditions

San Blas offers a specific calendar date to consider when planning your trip: in Páganos, the day is celebrated on the Sunday closest to February 3. The Chulalai dance is part of the festival, as is the religious tradition of kissing the saint’s relic. The festive food is also closely associated with the occasion: breads called “cachetes,” rosquitos and puff pastries are brought to be blessed. San Blas thus brings together a date, dance, ritual and pastries in a single celebration. The exact annual program may vary. If you are planning your stay around this date, check the festival dates for that year. The feast of Saint Clement is associated with November 23 and provides another calendar reference for Páganos.

Dolmen Route through Páganos

For planning a tour, the Ruta de los Dólmenes de Rioja Alavesa offers a different perspective: the unmarked circular route passes through Páganos, is 53.22 kilometers long and includes eight dolmens. Combining a circular trail with several dolmens makes it a longer, continuous route option; check your navigation before setting out, as the route is unmarked. One point of interest along the route is the Dolmen of San Martín: it lies about 300 meters from the A124 in the direction of Laguardia; a 400-meter detour leads to it before Páganos. The two figures therefore refer to different things: about 300 meters describes its location relative to the A124, while 400 meters is the length of the detour. This gives you both an overview of the circular route’s length and features and precise directions to this dolmen.

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For the broader travel overview: Alava.