Villar on the Río Híjar: Landscape and Architecture

Villar lies at an altitude of about 970 metres on the Río Híjar, on the lower slopes of the Liguardi. Immediately north of the last houses, an extensive oak forest stretches across the area, also encompassing the territories of Proaño and La Hoz de Abiada. Riverside vegetation, as well as ash trees, poplars and willows, grow along the Río Híjar. The area around the village therefore features a variety of landscapes: the vegetated riverbank and the oak forest on the northern edge of the village.

Hiking and Landscape

A hiking route description published by the hiking association in 2012 describes the PR-S40 circular route, “Camino a los Pies del Liguardi,” as a loop from Naveda via Ormas, Proaño, Villar and Hoz de Abiada, returning to Naveda. The municipality still lists PR-S40 in its hiking route network. Since the route description dates from 2012, check the route’s current status before setting out.

Churches and Architecture

The parish church of Saints Justo and Pastor follows the understated Campurrian Baroque style of the 17th and 18th centuries and shows influences of the Herrera tradition. Its main altarpiece consists of two tiers above a predella, with five panels. Its architectural style recalls the Tridentine classicism of the first decades of the 17th century. The Chapel of Santa Lucía and the church’s baptistery have pointed arches that recall a possibly Gothic predecessor dating from the 15th century.

To visit the church, you can ask local resident Sagrario to open the doors for you. This is a visit that must be arranged locally, not a venue with fixed public opening hours. Ask before your arrival whether a visit can be arranged. Another historical trace is the epitaph of the priest Nahino set into the church floor; his name is also rendered as Nanino. It is dated to the year 1036.

Other buildings have their own distinctive features. The Casona-Torre de los Celis probably dates from the 17th century; a tower was added later. Its grand portal bears a coat of arms. At Casa Concejo, the rich geometric and vegetal ornamentation around the central window stands out.

Traditions and Local Highlights

The Ermita de San Miguel lies across the Río Híjar, well outside the village centre of Villar, at the place known as Somacelada. It is probably an 18th-century building with a single nave; the bell gable has three openings. The hermitage houses the image of the Virgen de Labra, patron saint of the Hermandad de Campoo de Suso. According to local tradition, the shepherd Justo Bazo found the image on the summit of Cuesta Labra on 22 July 1615.

In the wider region, traditional celebrations take place on 5 August at the Ermita de la Virgen de Labra, in the meadows of Somacelada. A 2023 article in the municipal magazine lists Mass, a communal paella meal, the rosary, football, folk performances and an orchestra among the programme events; the exact line-up may change. If you are planning a trip for the celebrations, check the current dates and programme.

Villar is also home to the artisanal cheese dairy “Quesos Merrelamo,” said to be the municipality’s only cheese dairy. It adds a connection to local cheesemaking to the village’s natural and historical highlights.

Getting There

Villar can be reached via the CA-183 from Reinosa towards Alto Campoo. From Espinilla, a local road climbs for just under three kilometres to Villar. Check current road conditions before setting out.

Discover more destinations: Bárcena de Ebro, Ribamontán Al Monte, Santander, Noja, Trasvia, Guardamino, Valmeo, Ampuero.

For the main travel overview: Cantabria.