Ontaneda – History and Routes along the Pas

Ontaneda lies on the left bank of the Pas. Its townscape combines buildings from different periods with longstanding traditions, while its several routes each have their own points of interest. For planning your trip, it is therefore helpful to distinguish clearly between the town’s architectural and local history and route-related topics, which range from a former railway line to a Natura 2000 habitat.

By the Pas and at the thermal spring

A key geographical feature is Ontaneda’s location on the left bank of the River Pas. Ontaneda also has a sulphurous thermal spring, known since Roman times. The river and the spring mark two different aspects of the town’s character: the Pas places Ontaneda in its landscape, while the spring adds a long historical dimension.

The Palacio, the church and local history

The Palacio de Ontaneda was built in the 18th century by Francisco de Bustamante y Guerra. It once housed Isabel II; today, the building houses the Centro de Estudios Históricos del Ferrocarril Español. Its construction, historical association with the queen and current institutional use point to different chapters in the Palacio’s history.

The Iglesia de San Juan Bautista is a neo-Gothic temple built between the 17th and 18th centuries. Nearby, the group of notable manor houses points to stages in the area’s development and to the presence of historically significant families. The traditional washhouses offer a different perspective: as ethnographic features, they help us understand everyday life in the past. The montañesische boleras, in turn, are regarded as traditional centers of social interaction. Local history therefore encompasses not only grand buildings, but also everyday places and community traditions.

Sobaos and quesadas are also part of the town’s identity: Ontaneda is associated with the production of these traditional Cantabrian sweets. This adds a culinary aspect to its architectural and everyday history.

The Vía Verde, the Circuito and the Ruta del Agua

The former Ontaneda railway station now serves as a tourist information office. The Vía Verde del Pas begins nearby and passes the municipal swimming pool along its route. The Circuito de Ontaneda offers different points of interest: it passes a figure honoring the salmon and follows a safe section that avoids the original railway alignment, which was altered by a timber company.

The Ruta del Agua has other points of reference. After crossing the northern part of Ontaneda, it heads toward Sel del Tojo. The route also leads into a Natura 2000 network habitat and toward the Palacio de Ontaneda, also known as the Palacio de Semprún. After 1.5 kilometers, the Ruta del Agua approaches Ontaneda’s town center. These landmarks help distinguish the routes by theme: the railway connection of the Vía Verde, the salmon motif along the Circuito, and the nature and local landmarks of the Ruta del Agua.

La Boñiguera and Sel del Tojo

La Boñiguera, also known as Muñiguera, takes place every year on the first Saturday in June and ends at the hermitage of Sel del Tojo. Sel del Tojo is also a direction marker on the Ruta del Agua: the celebration ends at the hermitage, while the route continues in that direction. If you are planning your trip around the celebration, check the date for your chosen year.

For the wider travel overview: Corvera De Toranzo.