Moesa: Cultural Routes, Castles and Mountain Landscapes

Moesa is located in the Italian-speaking part of the canton of Graubünden and encompasses the valleys of Mesolcina and Calanca. The Moesa River flows through both valleys, whose landscapes have a rural character. Between local history, old routes and mountain landscapes, you will find different highlights for your trip—from visits to places of cultural and historical interest to hikes and nature experiences.

Discover Culture and Architectural History

In the historic Palazzo Viscardi in San Vittore, the Museo Moesano displays ethnographic exhibits, including reconstructions of a traditional kitchen and bedroom. A permanent exhibition is dedicated to the Magistri moesani: architects, master builders and artists who worked mainly abroad from the 16th to the 18th century. The museum also offers an educational, hands-on archaeology laboratory. School classes and adult groups can try working with tools and materials from the past; ask about the program for your visit in advance.

Castello di Mesocco dates back to the early Middle Ages. It is considered one of the most significant castle ruins in Graubünden and the largest in Switzerland. The castle can be visited free of charge every day throughout the year; check the conditions before your visit. The Via San Bernardino also passes historical landmarks, including archaeological finds, towers and castles such as the fortress of Mesocco, as well as Romanesque and Baroque churches. Villages are set on terraces or along the route.

In Santa Maria in Calanca, a medieval tower, a parish church first mentioned in 1219 and a hospice run by Capuchin fathers shape the village landscape. Stone buildings there are linked by a dense network of paved footpaths. The Grotti di Cama offer another example of regional architecture: these natural cellars have been used to store food since antiquity and form a significant complex of vernacular architecture. Guided visits with the Fondazione Cultura e Territorio di Cama are possible. Three grotti are open to the public as restaurants; confirm the visit options and opening times in advance.

Historic Routes and Hikes

The ViaCalanca is a historic hiking trail from Grono to Rossa and part of the “Cultural Routes of Switzerland” project, which promotes historic routes and helps preserve the cultural landscape. The official trails are graded T1, with side trails graded T2. A section of the trail from Arvigo to Braggio retains original historic fabric; a drainage channel is visible along a large part of the route.

The Sentiero Alpino Calanca is a different undertaking for a longer alpine tour: this high-altitude trail covers 45 km and has a stated duration of 36 hours, running from San Bernardino Ospizio to Santa Maria in Calanca. It is graded T3 and listed as a seasonal route from July to September; check alpine conditions before setting out. Much of the route runs above 2,000 m, across slopes with rhododendrons and open larch forests. Mountain lakes, far-reaching views and possible wildlife sightings shape the landscape experience along the way.

The mule track from Selma to Landarenca is available year-round, is 2.20 km long and has an estimated walking time of about one hour. Check trail conditions before setting off. For another perspective on historic trail features, the route from Mesocco via the castle ruins to Soazza includes a section along the former railway line; the path to the castle ruins is a natural trail with views over the Misox.

Landscape, Protected Areas and Water

In Val Calanca, elevations range from the valley floor in the municipality of Buseno at 502 m to Puntone dei Fraciòn at 3,202 m. These considerable differences in altitude contribute to the area’s rich natural environment and wildlife. The Bedoleta forest reserve covers about 727 hectares and extends from 1,200 m to the upper forest line at approximately 2,100 to 2,300 m. It is included in an inventory of regionally significant landscape protection areas; check boundaries and protection classifications before visiting the area.

The Pian di Alne floodplain lies on the Calancasca River and is of national importance. It is also listed as an area of national importance for amphibian reproduction. Access may vary depending on conservation measures. The situation is different at Lagh Doss: several marked trails lead there from San Bernardino in less than an hour. Swimming is possible there in summer, as are water sports such as kayaking. Check current water and trail conditions. A raised bog of national importance is also listed in an area next to Lagh Doss.

San Bernardino in Different Seasons

San Bernardino is associated with ski slopes in winter and outdoor activities in summer. The cross-country skiing area has more than 28 km of trails for classic and skating techniques. In summer, hiking, cycling and mountain biking are among the activities available at Passo del San Bernardino. The seasonal highlights are therefore quite distinct, and the same route or activity should not be assumed to be suitable for every season.

To reach the S. Bernardino, Ospizio stop, PostAuto route 541 serves the area; in summer, it runs every two hours in the direction of Nufenen. As timetables are seasonal and may change, check the connection for your travel date. A circular trail near San Bernardino follows a forest road around Lago d’Isola and to a marshy area at Lagh de Pian Doss, which is suitable for a picnic by the lake.

Discover more destinations: Lostallo, Soazza, Santa Maria In Calanca, Roveredo, Cama, San Bernardino, Misox, San Vittore Gr, Castaneda Gr, Verdabbio, Selma, Rossa Gr, Braggio.

For the overarching travel overview: Graubünden.